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Author Topic: Digital Shooting with a Spotting Scope  (Read 1238 times)
Psychokitty
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« on: June 01, 2008, 03:23:11 PM »

I just purchased a Bausch & Lomb "Discoverer" spotting scope, complete with telephoto attachment for an SLR that will turn it into a 1000mm-4000mm telephoto lens assembly. The scope is 20x-60x, with a 60mm objective. I plan on machining a bracket to couple my TX-1 to it.

Question; -Really rather regarding all SLR lenses...

I have a collection of older SLR lenses and was wondering if anyone had ever tried using them in conjunction with a digital camera somehow? I suspect the focus must be out, though I can't see why someone hasn't jumped on an adapter design for using these now affordable older lenses.

Looking forward to making the adapter for the scope. Pictures to come soon.
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jhofman
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« Reply #1 on: June 01, 2008, 04:12:49 PM »

Wow.  Are you working for the CIA?

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Psychokitty
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« Reply #2 on: June 01, 2008, 04:39:36 PM »

LOL, no, I just want to take some decent moon shots. There's a lot of wildlife around me, too.
the scope at 60x with the camera at 10x, I should (theoretically) get 600x, though I doubt the quality would normally be anything great. But with CHDK, I can tweak enough to compensate for the shortcomings.
Imagine captures at the digital 40x with the scope at 60x...2400 power! LOL!
We'll see. It'll be interesting. If it doesn't work out, I've always wanted an original Bausch & Lomb Discoverer (as opposed to the  Discoverer made by Bushnell, who apparently took over the production).
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Psychokitty
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« Reply #3 on: June 04, 2008, 04:37:20 PM »

Got the scope today. It's in great shape, and came with an adapter for an SLR, which will be helpful when I go to couple it to the TX-1.
My Canon C-8 1.4X tele converter (67mm thread) fits with no adapter ring, which is great! Now, instead of 15x-60x, it's 21x-84x. Cheesy
Purple fringing is absolutely horrible (with or without the C-8 attached). I don't know if a yellow filter will help this. The diopter is a grand 10mm. First attempts at shooting through it on this very dark and dreary day have not produced acceptable results. I realize this will have very limited capabilities, but it already blows away the crappy old telescope I was using, and it'll still be quite fun. I'm hoping CHDK will help to compensate for the small aperture at higher zoom.
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vfxdoctor
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« Reply #4 on: November 23, 2008, 03:54:00 PM »

Do you have any trouble during the lens retracting?
How did you deal with that?


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Psychokitty
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« Reply #5 on: November 26, 2008, 04:19:01 AM »

I just now got this all together, but very roughly. The telescope is mounted to an aluminum block that sits on top of an aluminum plate. The camera is mounted to that plate. They are mounted using the threaded tripod holes, and the block is needed to raise the telescope diopter to meet the lens. There's also a collar around the scope diopter, and the camera lens slides into it when it's turned on.

It's all very big and clunky right now, and I just wanted to see if the results were worth the effort (in my case) of machining a nicer adapter. I get an awful lot of purple fringing in my results, and I'm going to have to try some filters and what not before I make that effort.
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robocat
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« Reply #6 on: November 26, 2008, 03:04:07 PM »

The purple fringing Wikipedia article has some good links at the bottom. Not properly correctable digitally (although you can do some gross corrections, you cannot recover the image properly).

The question is how to detect the difference between a) blur due to focal plane being different for the different wavelengths, and b) projected image size different for different wavelengths? A photo that is as in-focus as possible with narrow areas of white (not blown out) against black could help diagnose what was happening - you should be able to recognise what is causing the problem. (a) would be impossible to correct, while (b) could be somewhat corrected.

Maybe try illuminating with different lights? Different coloured lasers would be perfect (not a focused point laser but scene illuminating - trouble is getting hold of a blue laser), LEDs would be OK (they are not a single wavelength so not ideal), or perhaps use broad spectrum light, and use gels to filter everything but a narrow wavelength (I suspect too expensive to get gels of sufficiently narrow wavelength range).

Narrow R,G,B lens filters might work by taking photos the same scene more than once with different filters, but it would be difficult to not to touch anything: the smallest movement would prevent images registering properly (making it difficult to work out underlying cause).

Things I would look at:
1) In your favorite graphics tool, just look at the blue channel and see if it is in focus compared with other channels.
2) UV filter probably won't help (I would expect camera already has UV filtering internally).
3) avoid blown channels (CHDK helps here with zebra mode configured to show blown colours).


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« Last Edit: November 26, 2008, 03:08:49 PM by robocat » Logged
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